![]() ![]() This can probably be the best purchase after your camera and lens.Here is my current workflow which describe earlier in different places.Īs Out Gamma use Amira709 because for my subjective opinion it it gives best result. The only things that matter are: the ability to import your luts ability to have color histograms and ideally it should be bigger than 4 inches and brighter than 800 nits. Buy a display for monitoring your image.It’s 1000x better than anything else on the market + it’s free (Studio paid version has some great features and you can purchase it if you need them of course). Please use Davinci Resolve for your color grading.I would also like to give you a few suggestions on how you can improve the way you shoot with Sony A7S III as well as how you color grade your footage and apply the lut in post. I also hope that this will help you to improve your footage! A few recommendations and important notes That’s it! I hope my explanation of the workflow was clear and easy to replicate. You can skip this step and try to reproduce the result in the Davinci Resolve and I plan to do it somewhere in the future and release it as a power grade, but for now I use this method and it works great for me. Color Depth: R +1 G +1 B 0 C -1 M -1 Y +1.īest picture profile (IMO) for the free LUTCalc generated lut.I am using these settings for the picture profile and consider them to give me the best look with LUTCalc lut as well as huge flexibility in color grading in post:.Based on my tests this method did not crush any color or by any means add any artifacts or noise pollution to the image. I did dozens of tests and found that this is the best way to achieve organic colors and tweaking the saturation, color boost, playing with color or anything else in Davinci simply took too much time for achieving the same look. I am adding the saturation inside the camera by basically baking it in the picture profile.Finally I want to explain which picture profile settings I use as they are the key “secret” ingredient here and without using them you won’t have the same results. I also recommend using zebras, set to 95 level to make sure you are not crushing your highlights, to have a nice highlight roll-off and to be able to tone them down in post.ģ. ![]() Here you can see the comparison between four different color grading methods: (I really feel sorry for all those who purchased it for 50$ and I was among them as I wanted to see what was so amazing about it because so many people praised it in the Sony A7SIII facebook group). Plot twist: Phantom Lut feels to me just like the free LutCalc generated lut using the method in this video, but with a slight green tint added to it, which actually makes it worse. This software allows you to take Slog3, Sony S-Gamut3.cine and convert them to Alexa-X-2 Gamma and Gamut (and not you cannot replicate it with color transform in Davinci, at least I did not find the Alexa-X-2 Gamma and Gamut there). He used a free software created by Ben Turley (a genius of its kind) called LUTCalc. I found this video on YouTube and I really loved the workflow that Doug Stanford presented there. How I ended up finding the perfect solution for me ![]()
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